Householder Extensions and Conversions

Roof terraces on a rear extension and overlooking

8 min readBy PlanScope Editorial Team

Balconies, verandas and raised platforms are excluded from Class A, so any roof terrace on a rear extension is a full application. Here is how overlooking is assessed and what mitigation works.

A roof terrace on a rear extension needs a full planning application. There is no permitted development route to one, because Class A of Schedule 2, Part 1 to the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015 excludes any work that consists of or includes a veranda, balcony or raised platform. A flat roof you can step out onto is a raised platform. So roof terrace extension planning begins from an awkward position: the extension underneath might have been permitted development on its own, and the terrace is what drags the whole thing into the application system.

That split catches people out. A 3 metre single-storey rear extension on a semi, within the depth and height limits, needs no application at all. Add a door onto its roof and a railing, and you are applying for planning permission for the extension and the terrace together, because the Order no longer covers the works as a package.

Why Class A does not cover a terrace

Part 1 of Schedule 2 defines a raised platform as a platform with a height greater than 0.3 metres. That definition does most of the work. A first-floor flat roof is well above 0.3 metres, so decking, a balustrade and a door turn it into something Class A was never drafted to allow.

The same exclusion runs through the rest of Part 1. Class B, which covers roof enlargements such as a rear dormer, carries it too, so a terrace cut into a roof slope is also a full application. Class E restricts raised platforms on outbuildings.

One thing the exclusion does not catch is a flat roof with no means of getting onto it. If the only access is a hatch for maintenance, there is no balcony and no raised platform in use. Councils are alert to the obvious workaround, and a set of French doors opening onto a flat roof with a token railing will be read as a terrace whatever the drawings call it.

If you want certainty either way, a Lawful Development Certificate under section 192 of the Town and Country Planning Act 1990 is the only formal confirmation that proposed works are lawful without permission. An officer's email is not.

How overlooking is actually measured

Overlooking from a terrace is assessed differently from overlooking from a window. A window gives a fixed view from one position at one level. A terrace gives a moving view from anywhere within its area, usually above fence height, and often across the rear gardens of three or four properties rather than one.

Most adopted householder design guides work from separation distances, and the figures below appear in a great many of them. They are starting points rather than rules, and your own authority's guide governs.

Relationship Distance commonly used as a yardstick
Facing habitable room windows, rear to rear About 21 metres
Habitable room window to a blank elevation About 13.5 metres
Terrace or balcony edge to a shared boundary 1 to 2 metres of set back, with screening

An officer will also run a sightline. Draw a line from the nearest point of the usable terrace area to the nearest habitable room window and the nearest part of the neighbour's garden that gets regular use, then ask what a person standing there can see. Where the garden is narrow and the terrace sits at first-floor level, the honest answer is often most of it.

That is the argument you have to answer. Loss of privacy is a material consideration in the way that loss of view is not, and a terrace that looks straight down a neighbour's patio is the most common reason this kind of scheme fails.

Screens, planters and set backs

Three moves do nearly all the mitigation work, and they work best together.

  1. Set the usable area back from the rear parapet and from both side boundaries, then show the set back as a hard edge on the roof plan, not as an aspiration.
  2. Fit obscure-glazed or slatted privacy screens to the flanks, high enough that a standing adult cannot see over the top from within the terrace.
  3. Use fixed planters to occupy the set back, so the geometry survives the first time someone moves the furniture.

Screens of roughly 1.7 to 1.8 metres above terrace level are the usual answer, because they clear eye level. Below that they look like a balustrade and stop nothing. Obscure glass keeps light into the rooms behind, which matters on a north-facing elevation, and slatted timber reads better on a Victorian rear elevation than frosted glass does.

Guarding is a Building Regulations matter as well as a planning one, and Approved Document K sets the minimum height for the edge protection itself. Work out the balustrade and the privacy screen as one piece of design rather than bolting the second onto the first.

An illustrative example

Take a 1930s semi with a 3.5 metre deep ground-floor rear extension, a flat roof at first-floor level, and 19 metres from the rear elevation to the facing rear elevation behind. The terrace is drawn at 2.4 by 3 metres, set back 1.5 metres from the rear parapet and 1.2 metres from each side boundary, with 1.8 metre obscure screens on both flanks and planters filling the set back. The figures are illustrative only.

What that geometry does is push the usable area back towards the host dwelling, so the sightline into the gardens either side is broken by the screens and the sightline to the rear is lengthened to something close to the 21 metre yardstick. The scheme is then arguing about a measurable thing instead of asking the officer to take privacy on trust.

Noise, and the part nobody designs for

Noise from the use of a terrace is a genuine amenity issue and it is harder to mitigate than overlooking. Screens do very little for sound. A terrace directly above a neighbour's rear bedroom window, used on summer evenings, changes the character of that room.

Conditions restricting hours of use are sometimes attached, and I am sceptical of them on householder schemes. They are hard to monitor, and a condition that cannot realistically be enforced is vulnerable to the tests in national guidance. A smaller terrace in a better position is worth more than a large one with a curfew.

Where the terrace serves a bedroom rather than a living room, say so. Bedroom access tends to mean lower-intensity use, and it is a point worth making in the Planning Statement rather than leaving the officer to assume the worst.

Conditions that make a terrace acceptable

National guidance on the use of planning conditions sets six tests: a condition must be necessary, relevant to planning, relevant to the development, enforceable, precise, and reasonable in all other respects. Conditions on terraces usually take one of three forms.

  • The privacy screens shown on the approved drawings must be installed before the terrace is brought into use and retained thereafter.
  • The flat roof outside the area marked on the approved roof plan must not be used as a balcony, roof garden or sitting-out area.
  • Obscure glazing to a specified level must be fitted to named windows and kept in that condition.

The second of those is the one to read carefully, because it defines the terrace by reference to a drawing. If the drawing is vague about where the decking stops, the condition is vague too, and you will have an argument later when the neighbour complains.

What to submit

Drawings carry this application, and the written statements explain them. Expect to need existing and proposed rear and side elevations, a roof plan marking the usable area, screens and planters, and at least one section cut through the terrace showing the sightline over the screen to the neighbouring boundary. Photographs taken from first-floor level at the back of the house are worth more than any amount of text.

A short Planning Statement should then do three things: identify the amenity policies in the adopted local plan, give the separation distances as measured rather than as estimated, and explain what the mitigation is for. Where the house sits in a conservation area, the design and access requirements and the heritage position come into play as well, and the terrace will be judged on its effect on the rear elevation's character.

Rear schemes get an easier run than front ones for the same reason terraces get a hard one, which is visibility from the street and from neighbouring windows. If you are weighing up where to put the work, front extensions are harder than rear ones sets out why. The detailed privacy arguments around smaller openings are covered in Juliet balconies, terraces and overlooking on an extension, and if the flat roof is doing double duty, green roofs and rainwater on a householder extension deals with the drainage side.

And one practical point on sequencing. If the extension alone is permitted development and the terrace is the only reason for applying, price the application against building the extension now and the terrace later as a separate application. Two sets of fees, but a roof that exists is easier to assess than one on paper.

Enter your postcode on PlanScope to see which reports your site is likely to need before you apply.

This is general guidance, not legal advice. Check the position with your local planning authority or a qualified professional before relying on it. PlanScope provides AI-assisted draft reports for planning applications. Reports should be reviewed before submission. We do not guarantee planning approval.

Frequently asked questions

Does a roof terrace on an extension ever count as permitted development?

No. Class A of Schedule 2, Part 1 to the GPDO 2015 excludes work that consists of or includes a veranda, balcony or raised platform, and a raised platform means one more than 0.3 metres above ground. A first-floor flat roof fitted with a door and balustrade falls squarely inside that exclusion, so a full planning application is needed for the terrace and the extension together.

Can I build the extension under permitted development and add the terrace later?

The extension can be built under Class A if it meets every limit, and the terrace then needs its own planning permission afterwards. That route costs an extra application fee but gives the officer a built roof to assess rather than a drawing. Confirm the extension itself qualifies before starting, ideally through a Lawful Development Certificate.

How high do privacy screens need to be?

Screens of roughly 1.7 to 1.8 metres above terrace level are the usual answer, because that clears the eye level of a standing adult. Anything much lower works as edge protection and stops no views. Obscure glazing or slats both work, and the choice usually comes down to how much daylight the rooms behind the terrace need.

What separation distance will the council expect?

Many adopted householder design guides work from about 21 metres between directly facing habitable room windows and about 13.5 metres from a window to a blank elevation. Those are yardsticks rather than rules, and a terrace is judged on sightlines from the whole usable area rather than from one window. Check your own authority's design guidance.

Will a condition restricting the hours of use save a terrace?

Sometimes, but conditions have to be necessary, enforceable, precise and reasonable, and an hours restriction on a domestic terrace is difficult to monitor. A smaller terrace, set back further and properly screened, tends to be a stronger proposition than a large one carrying a curfew. Officers will say which they prefer at pre-application stage.

Sources and further reading

roof terracepermitted developmenthouseholder extensionoverlookingprivacygpdo

This article is general guidance about the planning system in England and, where stated, the rest of the UK. It is not legal or professional advice. Check your local planning authority’s validation requirements and take professional advice for your specific site.

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