Flood, Drainage and SuDS

Raingardens and bioretention on small sites

7 min readBy PlanScope Editorial Team

Raingardens control rate, volume and water quality on infill sites. Here is how the sizing, media specification and maintenance route are put together for planning.

A raingarden on a small site does three jobs at once: it slows the rate of runoff leaving the plot, it removes a share of the volume through infiltration and evapotranspiration, and it treats the water on the way through. That combination is why drainage officers like them on infill and small residential schemes, where there is no room for a basin and no appetite for a below-ground tank that nobody will maintain. Raingarden design for planning purposes comes down to getting the contributing area, the media and the maintenance route right, in that order.

The feature itself is simple. A shallow vegetated depression, an engineered soil media layer, usually a gravel drainage layer with an underdrain, and either an infiltration base or a liner.

What a raingarden does for rate, volume and quality

Rate control comes from the ponding depth above the media surface, which stores water temporarily and releases it through the media at a controlled rate. Volume reduction comes from infiltration at the base where the ground allows it, plus losses to the planting. Treatment happens in the top of the media layer, where sediment is filtered and metals and hydrocarbons are retained.

CIRIA C753, The SuDS Manual, sets out the design method and uses a simple index approach for water quality, matching the pollution hazard of the contributing surface against the mitigation that each type of component provides. Bioretention scores well on that comparison, which matters where runoff from a driveway or a parking court discharges to a watercourse.

A raingarden is not a substitute for an attenuation calculation. It is one component in a management train, and the Drainage Strategy still has to demonstrate the discharge rate and the volume for the design events.

Sizing against the contributing area

Sizing starts with the impermeable area draining to the feature. Roof, driveway, path, patio, measured from the drawings you are submitting rather than from an assumed percentage of the plot.

Design guidance for bioretention commonly starts from a surface area in the order of a few per cent of the contributing impermeable area, with the exact figure derived from the media's design infiltration rate, the ponding depth and the rainfall event being managed. Treat any percentage as a starting point for a calculation and not as a specification, because the result moves considerably with media permeability and with the depth of water you are willing to pond.

The calculation itself needs rainfall data appropriate to the location and an allowance for climate change, which is where the design storm profile matters, as covered in rainfall data and the design storm profile. The discharge rate the feature has to achieve is set separately, and the reasoning behind that figure is in discharge rates, greenfield, brownfield and betterment.

Two sizing errors recur on small sites. The first is draining a 90 m² roof plus a 45 m² driveway into a 2 m² planter and calling it a raingarden. The second is omitting the exceedance route, so that when the feature fills in an event beyond the design standard the water runs towards the house rather than to the road.

Soil media, underdrains and liners

Media specification is the part most often left blank, and the part that decides whether the feature still works in year five.

Layer Typical function What to specify
Ponding zone Temporary storage above the media Depth, side slopes, freeboard, overflow level
Filter media Infiltration, treatment, plant rooting Sand-dominated mix, depth, design infiltration rate, low phosphorus
Transition layer Prevents media migration Graded sand or geotextile, thickness
Drainage layer Collects and conveys treated water Clean gravel, perforated pipe size and fall
Base Infiltration or containment Infiltration rate from site testing, or liner specification

The filter media is an engineered mix rather than topsoil. It needs enough sand to maintain permeability under loading, enough organic content to support planting without releasing nutrients, and a specified design infiltration rate that the calculation uses. Garden topsoil clogs, and once the surface has sealed the feature becomes a puddle with plants in it.

Underdrains are needed wherever the base cannot infiltrate reliably, which on clay sites is most of the time. A lined feature with an underdrain still provides treatment, interception and rate control, so it remains worth building.

Lining is also the answer where infiltration is unsuitable for other reasons: shallow groundwater, a source protection zone, contaminated ground, or proximity to foundations. The usual separation distance from a building is taken from soakaway guidance and is commonly cited as around 5 metres, and on contaminated ground the whole question needs the treatment set out in sustainable drainage on a site with contaminated ground.

Planting and establishment

Planting has to tolerate both inundation and drought, because a raingarden is dry for most of the year and submerged for a few hours at a time.

The structure that works is a base of tolerant grasses and sedges in the lowest zone, perennials on the lower slopes, and shrubs or small trees only at the top edge where they will not be waterlogged. Dense cover matters more than species variety, because bare media erodes and weeds colonise.

Establishment is the vulnerable period. The first two growing seasons need watering, weeding and replacement of losses, and the feature should not be brought into service until the planting has knitted together, or the first storm washes the media into the underdrain. On small sites that sequencing problem is real: the drainage has to work from the day the house is occupied.

Adoption and management on small schemes

This is where small schemes struggle. A sewerage undertaker will consider adopting drainage that meets its own design and construction standards, and a raingarden sitting in a private front garden does not qualify. A highway authority will not adopt a feature outside the highway boundary.

So the realistic options are maintenance by the individual householder, a management company funded by a service charge, or a maintenance obligation secured through a planning agreement. Each has a weakness, and the honest position is that householder maintenance of a technical drainage feature works only where the feature is simple, the ponding is shallow and the owner has been told what it is.

Write a maintenance schedule that a non-specialist can follow. Clear the inlet and outlet twice a year, remove litter and silt from the surface, cut back the planting in late winter, check the overflow is clear, and call someone if water stands for more than 48 hours. Include it in the information pack handed over on completion.

Winter performance and ponding depth

Cold weather reduces media infiltration and plants are dormant, so winter performance is lower than the summer figure. Design for the wet season, not the dry one.

Ponding depth is a safety and planting decision as much as a hydraulic one. Shallow ponding of around 150 mm with side slopes no steeper than one in three suits a residential front garden, drains down quickly and stays plantable. Deeper ponding stores more water in less space and brings child safety, mosquito and plant survival questions with it. Drawdown within 24 to 48 hours is the usual target.

And check the levels three times. A raingarden set 50 mm too high does nothing at all, which is the single most common defect found on completion.

Presenting the design to the drainage officer

Lead local flood authority officers review a lot of drainage strategies and they look for the same things. Give them a plan showing contributing areas with figures, a long section through the feature with levels, the media specification, the calculation with its inputs stated, the exceedance route, and the maintenance schedule with the responsible party named.

Say what the design standard is and where the rainfall data came from. Where infiltration is claimed, give the test method and the measured rate rather than an assumed value. Where the feature is lined, say so and show the underdrain connection and its discharge rate.

If the site also sits in a mapped flood risk area, the drainage design has to sit alongside the Flood Risk Assessment and use consistent levels and allowances. Inconsistency between those two documents is the fastest route to a holding objection.

This is general guidance, not legal advice. Check the position with your local planning authority or a qualified professional before relying on it.

PlanScope provides AI-assisted draft reports for planning applications. Reports should be reviewed before submission. We do not guarantee planning approval. For specialist technical reports, qualified professional input may be required.

Frequently asked questions

How large does a raingarden need to be?

The surface area is derived from the impermeable area draining to it, the design infiltration rate of the filter media and the ponding depth. Design guidance gives starting percentages of the contributing area, but the figure moves considerably with media permeability, so treat any percentage as the beginning of a calculation rather than a specification.

Can a raingarden work on clay?

Yes, with a liner or a low-permeability base and a perforated underdrain. It will not reduce runoff volume much through infiltration, but it still provides interception, treatment and rate control through the media and the ponding zone. Most raingardens built in England sit on soils that need an underdrain.

What soil should the raingarden be filled with?

An engineered filter media, not garden topsoil. The mix is sand-dominated, with enough organic content to support planting and a low phosphorus content so it does not release nutrients. The specification should state a design infiltration rate, and that rate is the one the sizing calculation uses.

Who maintains a raingarden on a small housing scheme?

Usually the householder or a management company, because sewerage undertakers adopt only drainage meeting their own standards and highway authorities adopt only features inside the highway boundary. Provide a plain-language maintenance schedule in the handover pack, and secure anything beyond simple tasks through a planning obligation.

How deep should the ponding zone be?

Around 150 mm suits a residential front garden, with side slopes no steeper than one in three and drawdown within 24 to 48 hours. Deeper ponding stores more water in less space but raises safety and plant survival questions. Check the finished levels carefully, because a feature set slightly too high does nothing.

Sources and further reading

sudsraingardendrainage strategybioretentionsmall sites

This article is general guidance about the planning system in England and, where stated, the rest of the UK. It is not legal or professional advice. Check your local planning authority’s validation requirements and take professional advice for your specific site.

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